Відео

I know a lot of people like that method, and I can see some advantages to it as well. For myself with the amount of machines I work on and the variety, it adds some extra time, and does not account for an engine that has been overfilled or underfilled by the last guy who worked on it.

Oops correction. Sump drain hose and not crankcase hose. There is no such thing as crankcase hose.

@@pumpkin971 I agree that a ski should not be run for extended periods on the hose, the pump is unloaded and the bearings aren't often designed to support everything. I will warm skis up if I can put them in the water and ride them around in circles at idle (only a few minutes otherwise its too hot though) The extra little hole down in the oil tank cavity where the dipstick is does prove challenging to hit, but getting all that oil out is nice. I still do get some out of the sump drain hose even if I have extracted everything possible from the oil tank. Total is usually between 3.5 and 4 quarts per machine, so 3.59-3.7 sounds spot on to me. When you punch the filter, don't go too deep, and double check you don't knock the bypass valve out, if you punch dead center you can knock it out, I typically punch them off on an edge of the top to avoid such a problem.

Awesome, glad you found the problem! Sorry this was the problem.

A slight bit overfull probably wouldn't cause issues that quickly, if it was high and flooded the air filter to get down to the level its at now then it could cause some weird issues. Plugs seem to be a fairly common thing, My Honda tends to foul one or two the first time I start it for the season, but then is good until the next year. My Sea-Don't fouls them at the first start and sometimes once more during the season.

My opinion is that boats haven't had air filters for decades, PWCs didn't for a long time (no 2 stroke had an air filter that I'm aware of), New Sea-Doos don't have an air filter from the factory, and never have. Kawasaki hasn't put them on that I'm aware of either. Its just Yamaha and Honda that used air filters on their PWCs. The lake/ocean is not really a dusty environment for a jetski to be in, so how much is an air filter going to catch? I've personally seen and serviced rental PWCs with over 2000 hours that did not have an air filter, and they did not consume oil, have low compression or any other issues that could be attributed to the air filter being removed. I say take it out and see how she performs.

Maybe, but it is a bit more consistent than acid that might eat unevenly or get pooled up in hard to reach areas. Either way, as long as you keep the algae and scum off somehow thats what matters.

I forget that trick all the time. I use it regularly for seadoo wear rings, so much so that I just keep them in the freezer, but bearings and other press fit type things it doesn't click to do the same! Thanks for the reminder!

I haven't done that with a dd-wrt router, or any personal router, but I know those type of functionality is possible, I did something like that once with fail2ban (I think) on a server online that was getting hammered by one specific country trying to brute force a login or something. I don't recall 100% of what I did, or exactly what I used to accomplish it, but what you're looking for is possible.

@@trythistv I need to stop it at the router because I don't trust Windows firewall and my nginx logs grew to 9GB in just one week! Normally it averages 250GB over a whole year.

You're connecting the large terminals and getting nothing? I would check if the bottom solenoid is getting a good 12v connection from the battery or if it drops out, could be where the large nut on the solenoid that is fed 12v has some corrosion or something.

The ones I used were a Sierra 18-5817 with angled bracket, I haven't seen the flat bracket style used on tilt/trim pumps so the angled is very likely what you want, here is a link to the exact ones I used: amzn.to/4bvcysh Keep in mind you will need 2 of those, one for up and one for down. Hope this helps!

Close. There is air pressure fed into the remote oil tank to keep the primary oil tank full, with a 2psi check valve to make sure the pressure does not get too high, but the actual oil pump is an electronic solenoid pump that pumps oil regardless of there being pressure in the system anywhere. If it relied purely on the pressure in the tank, the engine would starve for oil at startup or any time the oil tank was opened to fill. You can disconnect the air line, remove the remote reservoir, and still run the engine without issue until the primary oil tank runs dry, or run the prime procedure with a scan tool or using the onboard method to cycle the pump with the engine off and no pressure anywhere in the system. However, that slight positive pressure in the system could be a major factor in the o-ring in the pump leaking as it ages.

I've got 230k on the clock, unsure on the actual mileage because it's evidently a factory reman engine, I know it's got an offset key in the cam gear already, and is in need of a new timing chain very soon, I just need to find the time to do it, I suspect that will make it start and run even better once I get that done.

Glad it helped!

I have done a diesel purge, as well as new injector nozzles, it has always had a more pronounced tap but no clear cause. I need to roll in a new timing chain soon, Its had an offset key since I got it. I'm hoping a new chain will help it out!

With the intake and exhaust empty, getting it out of the cylinders and any intake piping or intercooler if it's supercharged, and you should be ready to start it up briefly, and then check that the oil isn't water contaminated. It's not awful as long as you catch it before it hydrolocks while running, which you obviously have. Hope you can get it going again!

Ugh they updated the product page. It is supposed to be a M3x36mm ID o-ring, the link takes you to a m1x1.5 or something. Try this link instead: amzn.to/3RqKyh1

Awesome success story! Thanks for sharing! The document available for download on the website (trythistv.com/cruise-control/) has pictures of what some of the solder joints end up doing. Its very hard to see without some kind of magnification, Touching up every joint is the easy way.

I don't recall having seen that style personally yet, There has to be some way to remove the cover or relay

It'll make a big difference!

Glad to share!

I'm going to play with this stuff a bit more, I haven't seen anything work as fast, not even straight bleach. Once the mold gets started its a losing battle, so using whatever you can to stop or slow it down is quite likely better than just letting it go, even if it is a little rough on the vinyl or the stitching.

I need to do my timing chain, I know it is stretched a bit, and already has an offset key too. I just have to find the time to do it now.

Sometimes. It depends on if I feel it has run its course and the machine is as good as I can make it I will sell it. or if I have become attached to the project sometimes I keep them for a while until it makes me sad that it isn't getting the love and use it deserves. I've still got a bunch of the projects I've made videos on, I have more I want to do with some of them, I do have some hondas for sale right now actually though lol, they rarely need much, and aren't too exciting to make video after video on.

It is, and I've worked on a tremendous amount of Hondas, I currently own about 11 of them in various states from currently for sale running great to totaled hulls with good engines and blown up engines in bad hulls. The flush port is in the pump tunnel from the factory, if you skip to 1:48 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/ZTVeWFoutJ0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=trythistv it shows the fitting to flush with. I'm not sure if it will be the same in a jet boat, the plumbing might have been modified significantly.

I should probably do some kind of update for the newest models and issues I'm seeing. I've been hearing the nanoxcel hull yamahas have been having issues with the hull breaking from the rollers on jetski ports, so be careful with the 2016ish and newer yamahas. Seen it myself about 5 or 6 times. Seadoo has their plastic hulls like the spark and some of the newer GTI models that I'm still on the fence about, I prefer the old school fiberglass hulls personally, but the plastic hulled seadoos seem more durable than the yamaha nanoxcel as it turns out.

Glad it was helpful!

I'm all the over place with what I make videos about, but if anyone ever needs random information, I'm your man! lol

Oh no! thats not a good day when your stuff sinks! Hope the opas delete solves your water intrusion!

I'll send the next petrified gasket I get your way, I've caused way more damage with a razor than with a wire wheel, but I do agree, a wire wheel used too aggressively will damage the sealing surface. But so will a razor, and you won't get the gasket material off a 30 year old carb with a razor. Nowadays I tend to use a soft scotchbrite pad on a rotary tool.

@@trythistv funny, I apprenticed under a master automotive mechanic for 10 years and that’s the only way we were allowed to do it when working with soft metals. Excellent results.

The heat, ethanol, oil and whatever else happens in these carbs petrifies the paper gaskets so bad, I've never had issues scraping gaskets from an automotive style carb or anything else with a razor, but these gaskets harden up like it's a part of the metal. I've broken razors trying to scrape these things off, so I opted to very carefully use a wire wheel, and then later began with the scotchbrite wheels, which has worked excellent for the past 10 years I've been doing this, but I am extremely careful to just get the gasket off. Haven't had any issues with leaking fuel or vacuum yet, but I am well aware it's a dangerous game

I've heard of people using worm drive style clamps and them working fine, I just like the extra peace of mind that the oetiker clamps provide even pressure and won't loosen up from vibration or anything.

There shouldn't really be any pressure anywhere too much, just flowing water across the outside of the hull, I'd think you'll be fine, but it would probably be wise to keep an eye on it just to be sure at least for the first couple outings

Exactly!

There is a surprising lack of information about the Yamaha ride system out there, Hopefully this video helps you out with the ski you're working on!

They can be a ton of fun, best power to weight ratio out of a 2 stroke for sure. The SUV is just such an incredible machine too, can't even begin to compete with the storage and stability!

My friend from Poland is just selling it cause he bought a new one. Interested ?

Higher RPM could slightly raise the fuel pressure because the pump would be pumping faster, maybe you've got a little pinhole in a gasket or something that only drips as the pressure goes up?

The yellow plate gives it away!

So many things have become a replace rather than repair product. I've been enjoying a reddit group called buyitforlife, as is true with the internet and anything in general you do have to take what is suggested with a grain of salt but there are some good products that are durable enough to keep for years!

Happy to help!